But these are concrete temperatures not air temperatures. So when it's cold, we need to protect the concrete until it | ||
can handle the cold on its own. The general rule is that once the concrete has gained strength to about 500 psi then it's OK. The magical thing that happens is that at almost the same time that the concrete achieves 500 PSI compressive strength, hydration of the cement has consumed enough of the water in the original mix so that even if it does freeze, there's not enough water left int he pores to damage to concrete. With most concrete, even at 50 degrees, this happens during the second day. | ||
To help it reach that 500 PSI strength, then, there are two things we can do in cold weather; change the mix to get it | ||
to set more quickly or protect the concrete from the cold - or more likely, both. | ||
Cover concrete after finishing with straw or insulating blankets to help maintain temperature. |
There are a couple of reasons for this. First, frozen ground settles when it thaws, cracking the concrete. Second, the | ||
concrete will set more slowly if you place directly on cold or frozen ground. You can even get "crusting," with the top part of the concrete set and the bottom still soft. | ||
If the ground is frozen, you can thaw it using heat pipes and blankets. | ||
Remove all snow and ice in placement areas. Also, remove any standing water that could be mixed into the | ||
concrete. | ||
Warm up everything that will come in contact with the concrete, including forms and embedment. If it's not too cold | ||
and you cover everything the day before the pour, it should stay dry and warm enough. |